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12th-century Pilgrim's Hostel (4*)
Situated south of Bilbao on the old pilgrims’ route to Santiago de Compostela, Santo Domingo de la Calzada can also be reached easily from both San Sebastian and Pamplona. The Parador de Santo Domingo de la Calzada is located in the main square in a former pilgrims’ hostel established in the 12th century by a local saint, Dominic, who is commemorated in the neighbouring cathedral and in the name of the town. The building that once provided shelter for tired pilgrims now offers very comfortable accommodation to the modern traveller, while maintaining a strong historic atmosphere. The interior of the Parador features Gothic arches, stone pillars and wooden ceilings, while the comfortable bedrooms reflect the Parador’s overall ambience. Facilities include a sauna, and there is a golf course only 4 km away.
The Parador's atmospheric restaurant offers a variety of regional specialties all washed down with world-famous local Rioja wines. Less than half an hour away is the wine town of Haro, where many of the best-known Rioja names are established. There is also a second Parador in the town (Bernardo de Fresneda) which is a 3* property, approximately 800m away.
Occupied early on by the Goths, Celts, Romans and Moors, the town began to flourish when the Camino de Santiago, the St James' Way, became a regular route for pilgrims across the north of Spain. The first bridge over the river was built in 1044 to encourage trade and passage, and defensive works were carried out later in the 11th century. The name of the town is attributed to Saint Dominic, ''de la Calzada'' referring to the Roman road that passes through the region. In 1973, the old quarter was declared an area of artistic and historic interest, to be protected, and within this vicinity lie the Pilgrims' Hospital, today's principal Parador de Santo Domingo de la Calzada. The town is well situated to visit the famous vineyards of the La Rioja region, a region that not only produces some of Spain's finest wines, but also exports large quantities of vegetables such as asparagus, peppers, artichokes, tomatoes and potatoes to British supermarkets.
The town lays claim to many minor miracles and one major one, that of the cock and hen. A German family travelling to Santiago de Compostela were distraught to find their son accused of theft and hanged, following the accusation of a scorned local girl. The parents continued their pilgrimage to Santiago but on their return they discovered that their son still lived, seemingly under the protection of Saint Dominic. They appealed to the local judge, who was at table at the time, and he vehemently denied that the their son could survive the hanging. He declared that if it were true, the cock and hen cooked and served before him would rise up and sing, which they promptly did. You can still see today a cock and hen on display on the side of the original church, in reference to this tale.
To note: A second, smaller Parador was created in the early 21st century from the conversion of a 16th century convent on the other side of the old quarter.
Restaurant opening times:
Breakfast is served from 7.30 to 11.00
Lunch: 13.30 to 16.00
Dinner from 20.30 to 23.00. It may be possible to arrive up to 22.30 and still enjoy a meal.
Cafe/bar is open from 11.00 until 23.00
The Parador can be found in the old quarter of the town in the Plaza del Santo, next to the cathedral. Santo Domingo de la Calzada is 46 km from Logroño and 68 km from Burgos along the N-120, and 18 km from Haro, with a junction for the A-68 motorway to Zaragoza and Bilbao/Bilbo.
This Parador has a garage and outdoor parking both of which have a daily charge.
The small, northern region of La Rioja produces some of Spain's best known wines. The Parador hotels here are well placed to visit local wineries, as well as explore some important historical towns and stops on the St James' Way.
